The London Walker

Ah, the magical pleasure of supping a beer from a proper glass dimpled tankard, leaning up against the bar, taking in the wonders that can only be found in an old London boozer. There are so many glorious and fabulous pubs in London that we are truly spoilt for choice. At any one time it is estimated that there are between 3,500 and 4,000 licensed properties operating in the city.

While many pubs are sadly closing, it seems that as one closes its doors, another magically opens. With the diverse explosion of microbreweries, you’re never far away from a little cosy spot which serves the frothy brown stuff. From historic taverns, coaching inns to trendy modern gastropubs London has one of the most vibrant pub scenes in the world. As we approach the holiday season, I thought it high time to explore a couple of the old boozers I have long frequented, know, and love, and to examine their history and folklore.

It’s truly difficult to know where to start. You know – what’s your favourite pub, and on what basis do you judge it?

So, I thought I’d go with this one for starters: the old lovely Grade II listed Hand and Shears, tucked away between the Barbican and Smithfield. This year the Hand and Shears proved to be an invaluable spot for emergency hydration after my very first walking tour. High on a mixture of adrenalin and relief, and after an excellent first experience of guiding, I rewarded myself with a refreshing pint of the good stuff. I remember happily swishing through the doors that sunny September afternoon and settling myself at the bar with a well-earned glass of Timothy Taylor’s Landlord. Ah life can be so good at times.

This fine pub has played an important role in the surrounding area for centuries. Known affectionately as the Fist and Clippers, its name leads back to its legacy as a starting point for the famous Bartholomew Fair and the selling of cloth on this site since 1133. The cloth industry was crucial in medieval England, forming the backbone of the economy. From the Welsh marches to East Anglia, British wool became renowned for its high-quality, generating wealth through the production of fine textiles that were highly prized across Europe.

The current pub was built in the 1830’s but there has been an inn here since the Middle Ages. It played an important role in accommodating international traders and merchants from Flanders, the Netherlands, Italy and Germany, as well as in administrative functions, such as granting licenses, testing weights and ensuring everyone was following regulations, and, most importantly – something which I love to tell people on this walking route – the famous Cloth Fair was officially opened every August from the steps of the pub’s entrance by the Lord Mayor, who would ceremoniously cut a piece of cloth with a pair of shears.

This legacy remains to this day, across the world when officials, celebrities or royals are required to open a new sports centre or a public library, they are presented with a pair of scissors and a ribbon of fabric to cut. Well that strange behaviour originated here, on the steps of the Hand and Shears.

This changing area has no shortage of pubs – some ancient like The Shears, others new and trendy – but for me, this is the one I tend to gravitate towards. Not only does it have an amazing history, but it’s also a friendly, comfortable place, that’s never too busy. It’s not trying to be anything it isn’t, and having been here for so long, it knows exactly what it is.